Maison des Cèdres: Authentic French Villa Elegance in St Jean Pla de Corts

The Kjelling/Løining family’s summer vacations are always a highlight of the year. A time to explore new places, whether it is urban areas, rural regions, villas, or hotels. Early in the year the family decides on the destination, and Spain, Italy, Crete, and France have always been favorites, probably due to the guaranteed sun, beaches, and pools.

The Villa

In the beginning, the children were happy to share rooms, and food requirements were easy to meet. But now that they are teenagers and more traveled, their demands for food and comfort have increased. Accommodating the whole family in a hotel can be expensive, especially now that we can no longer squeeze into two family rooms. So, with four teenagers in the house, we chose therefore this year to rent a villa.

Newly renovated Belle Époque style villa from 1920s located in Languedoc Roussillon region at the foot of the Pyrenees mountains.
Photo credit: Maison des Cèdres.

We found a dream villa in southern France, in a small, charming village in the Pyrenees called Saint-Jean-Pla-de-Corts. This village, with around 2000 inhabitants, is in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains. The village has a rich history dating back to the Middle Ages and has preserved many of its traditions and cultural features.

The quaint village Saint-Jean.Pla-de-Corts is just a 30-minute drive to the beaches. Nearest airport is Perpignan.

Getting there

The most convenient way to reach our destination is by flying Oslo - Barcelona. From there, it's just a 1.5-hour drive to the villa. We planned our vacation early, allowing us to book reasonably priced flights with SAS. Learning from last year’s car rental mishap through a third-party site—where we faced high insurance costs at check-in and ended up with a car too small to fit our luggage. We reserved this year a car directly through Avis, making sure everything was included for a seamless pickup at the airport. This allowed us to skip the long rental queues and settle into our spacious van, comfortably accommodating six people and lots of luggage. Teenagers, as usual, had brought more than enough!

The hosts

The historic and charming villa, Maison de Cedres, is owned and operated by Fredrikke Næss and Tristan Viala, a Norwegian-French couple with long experience in the hotel industry. They are top-notch hosts, extremely discreet and service oriented. There is nothing they can’t help with, and they spend a lot of time in advance to tailor the holiday for you. For me, the ultimate luxury is not having to shop, cook, and clean up after the whole squad. I do that the rest of the year, and to feel like I’m on vacation, it’s wonderful to come to a set table. It’s like a “homecation” where we live more privately and for ourselves but have the service of a hotel. Perfect combination, the best of both worlds.

The couple has renovated and furnished the villa with great care and respect for its history and soul, while adding modern comforts and amenities to make your stay as comfortable as possible. There are thick large towels, bathrobes, and slippers in each bathroom. They have invested in Jensen beds with crisp white bed linens by Amet you don’t sweat in. The small hotel details that everyone appreciates.

I have long followed the couple’s work with the transformation of the old villa and the dream that has come true of running something of their own. It’s a dream I’ve always had myself, so it’s extra fun to experience what they’ve achieved up close. There’s a lot of hard work behind creating a place that suits both families with children and groups of friends, or large families like ours with four teenagers.

Our four teenagers had their own private space and bathrooms since the villa has 5 bedrooms.
Photo: private

Arrival

When we were a minute away, we informed them that we were just around the corner. When we arrived at the high wrought-iron gates, they opened automatically, and we drove up a lush, green path to the house. In front of the house, there is a roundabout with lavender and green plants, and a white gravel path leads up to the wide steps. It was just as romantic and French as we had imagined. The owners stood on the steps with their Rhodesian Ridgeback, Theo, and welcomed us. They asked us to wait with the luggage as they had poured champagne into glasses, soda for the children, and served olives and nuts from the area. It was time to relax because the holiday had finally begun.

We were given a tour of the house, and of course, the children were very excited about their rooms. The ultimate luxury on this holiday is that everyone gets their own room with a bathroom. The spacious bedrooms can accommodate ten people spread over five bedrooms and five bathrooms.

Interior

A large dining room is elegantly furnished with a chandelier from Italy and high ceilings. A cozy living room with a fireplace and a modern kitchen with two dishwashers, good cooking facilities, two refrigerators, everything you could wish for if you want to cook yourself. Additionally, a laundry room with a washing machine, dryer, and clotheslines both outside and inside. The garden is beautifully furnished with a terrace, grill, and outdoor furniture. And a little further down from the house in green and flowery surroundings is a saltwater pool with sun loungers for everyone. It can get hot, so they have installed some mist under the pergola so you can cool down.

The villa has an authentic and charming atmosphere, with beautiful, tiled floors from the 1920s, antique furniture, and art on the walls. A collection from Fredrikke and Tristan’s life, but also furniture they have found in France. The house offers a range of amenities such as Wi-Fi, air conditioning in all bedrooms, satellite TV, a music system, an alarm, parking, and a concierge. The couple themselves live in a separate apartment on the property and are available to help you with anything you might need during your holiday. They know the area well and can give you tips and recommendations on what to see and do nearby. Fredrikke and Tristan are passionate about ensuring you enjoy the villa and have a great holiday.

Breakfast

The years we have rented a villa, we have cooked ourselves at home. But this year we decided to treat ourselves to having someone else take care of this, and these are services the couple offers. We ordered breakfast every day, and during the ten days also dinner on some occasions. Before we arrived, we made a list of what everyone likes for breakfast, they took care of the shopping and made a full five-star breakfast every morning at the time we wanted. It was the highlight of the day to come down to a set table in the dining room, with lit candles, freshly squeezed orange juice, local fruit, cheese, eggs, fresh bread, and chocolate croissants from the bakery around the corner.

Dinner

For the dinners, they put together a two- or three-course menu with local ingredients, and Tristan, who is also a sommelier, had bought wines from the area that matched. It was everything from goat cheese salad, duck breast, organic grilled chicken, and meat from the butcher in town.

Beach clubs

As an active family throughout the year, we look forward to relaxing, enjoying the sun, eating good food, and doing as little as possible when summer vacation comes. Our days were spent exploring nearby towns and beaches, where there were few tourists. It felt like we had discovered a secret time when the French had not yet started their holidays, and the tourists had not discovered these places. Most tourists were probably lying on the beach in Cannes, Nice, and Marbella, fighting for sunbeds, and around every corner, someone speaks Norwegian.

We discovered beaches that lay quiet and inviting before us. It was a luxurious feeling to have these beautiful places almost to ourselves. A half-hour drive from the villa was Nouvelle Vague Beach Club, a hidden gem on the wide beach in Argelés-sur-Mer. This place is more than a beach club; they offer sunbeds with thick mattresses, a charming beach restaurant with very good food, and a snack section where everything could be served at the sunbed if desired. Decorated in a clean, white style with fantastic views, although the wind was sometimes a challenge. But we Norwegians are used to all kinds of weather, so we were not deterred. Kristian found windbreaks that shielded us from the wind, accompanied by a glass of rosé wine and chill beach music, the mood was at its peak.

La Casa Pardal is a hidden gem on the large beach in Torreilles, which became our favorite among the beach clubs. This little paradise, just a half-hour drive away, offered crystal clear water and a calm atmosphere. The exceptional food, especially the seafood paella we had for lunch, was unforgettable. We were so taken with the place that we returned for a whole day at the beach, which ended with dinner. We went straight from the beach to dinner, which was probably unusual for the staff because the owner was still taking a siesta on the sofa, and the staff was having dinner before the evening shift began. But they welcomed us in, and a cheerful Cuban who loved Norway served us in the best seats in the house. A couple of hours later, the restaurant was packed with French people, live music, and a fantastic atmosphere. On our way home, we caught the finest sunset.

Places to visit

Collioure, a charming and colorful town, we returned to twice. The town, located in a bay surrounded by terraced vineyards, offers a fantastic view of the Pyrenees meeting the Mediterranean along the Alberes mountain range. Here we could follow in the footsteps of Henri Matisse and Andre Derain. We enjoyed classic French dishes at the restaurant Chez Leon, an old-fashioned bistro with red velvet benches and art deco interiors, well worth a visit. We also dined one evening at the renowned restaurant Le Neptune, but although the food did not quite live up to expectations, the sunset over the sea with a classical concert in the background down by the harbor made up for it.

Transportation

Having a car is essential for exploring the surrounding areas, towns, and beaches. Although it’s not a long drive to the best places, taxis are hard to find. But we found the only Uber driver in the village, a family man named Pierre, who also had the only Tesla within a mile. He spoke a little English, which was rare in the area, so be prepared for a lot of gesturing and Google-translated phrases. Additionally, Tristan offers himself as a driver, and if you register the car under his name, this is the best solution if you want flexibility.

Gym

We also enjoy working out on vacation, and we found a gym Fitness for me where the owner let us work-out for 5 euros per day per person. It was a well-equipped gym with friendly staff, but remember, they only accept cash, and you can´t buy any water.

Closest city

One evening, we visited Céret, known for its artist community, narrow streets, and the Picasso Museum. The town, located near the French-Spanish border, is an informal place with many restaurants, cafes, and cultural life. The Saturday markets are worth experiencing. The neighborhood restaurant Le Jardin de Ceret became a favorite, known not only for its beautiful garden and good food but also for the owner’s excellent service with a touch of humor.

Vineyards with dinner

We also visited several wineries with restaurants. Les Clos de Paulilles, a renowned winery and restaurant in the scenic Cote Vermeille near Collioure, offered authentic experiences of the region’s culture and flavors. With vineyards right in front of us and an open-air restaurant, the setting was intimate and rustic. It’s important to take your time here and enjoy the moment together because service is slow. The food was fantastic, and we shared several dishes. Kristian rolled his eyes in delight when he finished with the classic crème brûlée, accompanied by dessert wine from the estate and a small espresso. Also, be sure to visit their charming wine shop to savor some exquisite wines, or take a few bottles home as we did.

Conclusion

Summarizing the holiday, life in Saint-Jean-Pla-de-Corts is so calm and pleasant. Everyone takes their time, even in the long queue at the local bakery, people take time to chat, no one on their phones, and no one is stressed or impatient. There is a strong focus on quality ingredients, and thanks to the climate, fruits and vegetables taste as they should. Whether it’s a small corner cafe or a restaurant, the food is generally always good. It’s also a safe and good place to visit with children.

Although we experienced some wind, mosquito bites, and a few language barriers, this is truly a place we want to return to. Many unique experiences in the surrounding area are just a half-hour away, without being overcrowded with tourists. Here you experience nature, crystal-clear seas and beaches, all while the scent of lavender and thyme fills the air. Among this idyllic setting lies the beautiful villa of Fredrikke and Tristan, a place crafted with tender love, care, and an eye for details.

C’est la vie!